Ithaca Double Barrel Shotgun Identification

Identifying an Ithaca double barrel shotgun often hinges on a combination of factors related to its manufacturing and design such as serial number, proof marks, gauge and model type. The serial number is a unique identifier, is stamped on the shotgun’s various parts, providing insights into its age and production period. Proof marks are stamps indicating that the shotgun has undergone testing to ensure it meets safety standards, offer clues about the gun’s origin and intended use. Different gauge refers to the bore diameter of the shotgun barrels, can affect the shotgun’s value and suitability for various shooting activities. The model type of Ithaca double barrel shotguns indicates specific features and production variations, helps collectors and enthusiasts categorize and understand the shotgun’s history and characteristics.

A Legacy Forged in Steel: Unveiling the Secrets of Ithaca Double Guns

Picture this: the crisp morning air, the scent of gunpowder lingering after a successful hunt, and in your hands, a piece of American history – an Ithaca double-barrel shotgun. The Ithaca Gun Company, born in the late 19th century in the heart of New York, wasn’t just churning out firearms; they were crafting legends. These shotguns became synonymous with quality, durability, and a distinctly American spirit of ingenuity. They became a symbol for American Firearm history.

But here’s the thing: not all Ithaca’s are created equal, and knowing exactly what you’ve got can make all the difference. Why does pinpointing the exact model, grade, and year of your Ithaca matter? Well, for starters, it impacts its value. Whether you’re looking to sell, insure, or simply understand the worth of your firearm, accurate identification is key. Then there’s the matter of restoration. If you’re planning to bring an old Ithaca back to its former glory, knowing its original specifications is crucial for sourcing the right parts and maintaining its historical integrity. More importantly, and above all, understanding the history of that magnificent firearm.

Think of this guide as your treasure map to unlocking the secrets hidden within your Ithaca double. We’re going to zero in on the key markings, features, and nuances that set these classic shotguns apart. No boring textbook jargon here! We will together explore the crucial points to identify that shotgun. It’s all about giving you the knowledge to not only identify your Ithaca but also to truly appreciate the craftsmanship and history behind these iconic firearms. So, grab your magnifying glass (optional, but adds to the fun), and let’s dive in!

Decoding the Numbers: Your Ithaca’s Secret Birthdate

Alright, let’s get down to brass tacks! You’ve got this beautiful Ithaca double in your hands, a real piece of American history. But how old is she, really? That’s where the magic of serial numbers comes in. Think of them as the shotgun’s fingerprint, unique and (usually) telling a story. Understanding these little digits is absolutely crucial for a few reasons. It helps with valuation (knowing when it was made can significantly affect the price), restoration (making sure you use appropriate parts for the period), and just plain appreciating the history you’re holding.

So, where do you find these secret codes? On Ithaca doubles, the serial number is most commonly found on the receiver. Give the metal body of the gun a good once-over. You’ll often find it stamped clearly on the underside or side. Now, don’t stop there! Ithaca sometimes liked to play hide-and-seek. Also, check the forend (that’s the piece of wood that sits under the barrels) and even the barrels themselves. You might find a matching number there, confirming that all the parts are original to the gun. Finding matching numbers is like hitting the jackpot – it means you’ve got a complete and unmolested piece of history!

Now for the fun part: cracking the code! Sadly, Ithaca didn’t leave us a Rosetta Stone. But fear not! Thankfully, dedicated collectors have compiled serial number charts that correlate to approximate years of manufacture. A quick google search for “Ithaca shotgun serial number chart” will bring up a plethora of resources, or you can check out sites dedicated to Ithaca collecting. It’s like being a historical detective! Keep in mind that these charts are generally based on known data, so the year will be approximate.

Before you run off to play Sherlock Holmes, a word of caution. Like any good mystery, there are twists and turns. Serial number records weren’t always perfectly kept (it was a different time, after all!), so there can be anomalies. Sometimes there were batches of shotguns that were made, but did not get serialized until much later. Or, in rare instances, numbers might be duplicated or out of sequence. If your number seems to fall outside the expected range, don’t panic! It just means your Ithaca might have a particularly interesting story to tell, and it might be time to consult with an Ithaca expert. They can help you unravel the mystery and get a more accurate understanding of your shotgun’s age and history.

Gauge and Bore: Unlocking the Secrets Etched in Steel

Alright, let’s talk gauge and bore – not the most glamorous topics, but absolutely crucial for understanding your Ithaca double. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t try to fuel a monster truck with scooter gas, right? Knowing the gauge is knowing what “fuel” your shotgun needs and understanding its inherent capabilities.

So, what exactly is gauge? Simply put, it’s a measurement related to the internal diameter of the shotgun barrel. Now, here’s where it gets a little quirky: the gauge number refers to the number of lead balls, equal in diameter to the bore, that would weigh one pound. I know, sounds like something out of an old math textbook, but hang with me. A 12-gauge means it would take 12 lead balls of that bore size to equal a pound. Therefore, a smaller gauge number means a larger bore diameter. The most common gauges you’ll find on Ithaca doubles are 12, 16, 20, 28, and the exception to the rule, the .410 bore (which is actually a caliber, not a gauge, but we won’t get too technical). Generally, 12 gauge is the largest and .410 is the smallest, offering a range of power and shot capacity.

Where do you find this magical gauge information? Typically, you’ll find it stamped on the barrel flats, which are the flat surfaces on the underside of the barrels where they meet the receiver. You might also find it on the receiver itself, especially on older models. It might be subtly placed, so get your reading glasses ready and hunt around!

Proof Marks: The Gun’s Certificate of Good Behavior

Now, let’s move onto something equally important: proof marks. Think of these as the shotgun’s “report card” or, perhaps, a badge of honor. These markings indicate that the gun has undergone testing with overloaded cartridges to ensure it can safely handle the pressures of normal use.

Why are proof marks important? Because they give you peace of mind! They are a testament to the gun’s integrity and a sign that it was built to withstand the rigors of shooting. Tampering with or the removal of these marks should be a major red flag.

What do these proof marks look like on Ithaca shotguns? Well, they can vary, but some common ones to look out for include:

• The Ithaca Gun Co. mark: This is the manufacturer’s stamp, often accompanied by the city and state (Ithaca, N.Y.).
• View Marks: Tiny marks from when the barrels are being inspected.
• Gauge designation: As mentioned above, it may be stamped along the barrels.

Understanding these marks is like learning a secret language – it unlocks a deeper understanding of your Ithaca’s history and its ability to safely perform.

Barrel Length and Handling: How It Affects Your Shotgun

Alright, picture this: you’re browsing through a gun show, and an Ithaca double-barrel catches your eye. Beyond the engraving and the gleam of the wood, one of the first things you’ll notice is the barrel length. But it’s not just about aesthetics, oh no! The length of those barrels plays a HUGE role in how the gun feels and performs. So, let’s break it down!

Ithaca, in their infinite wisdom, crafted their double-barrels with a variety of barrel lengths to suit different needs. You’ll commonly see lengths like 26 inches, 28 inches, 30 inches, and even 32 inches. But why the variety? Well, it all boils down to swing, balance, and handling.

Imagine swinging a baseball bat. A shorter bat is quicker to swing, right? Same principle applies to shotguns! A shorter barrel (like a 26″ or 28″) makes for a faster, more responsive swing. This is ideal for situations like upland bird hunting, where you need to quickly track and shoot at fast-moving targets like flushing quail or grouse in thick cover. These shorter barreled guns are favored for their ease of handling in dense brush.

On the flip side, longer barrels (think 30″ or 32″) offer a smoother, more deliberate swing. This extra length adds weight out front, which helps to stabilize the gun and reduce muzzle jump. This is why you’ll often see longer-barreled Ithaca shotguns favored for waterfowl hunting (where you’re tracking birds in flight over open water) or for trap and skeet shooting (where consistent, controlled swings are key). These longer guns are less whippy and tend to offer a more consistent point of aim.

So, choosing the right barrel length is all about matching the gun to its intended use. Short for quick and nimble, long for smooth and steady. It’s all about finding that sweet spot that feels right in your hands and helps you put more shot on target!

Choke Identification: Reading the Patterns

Alright, let’s talk chokes! No, not the kind that makes you cough. We’re diving into shotgun chokes, those clever constrictions at the end of your Ithaca’s barrel that control how wide your shot spreads when it leaves the gun. Think of it like this: are you trying to hit a tiny, fast-moving clay pigeon or a big ol’ goose way up high? The choke helps you tailor the pattern to the task.

So, what are the usual suspects when it comes to choke constrictions? You’ve got your Full choke, which keeps the shot nice and tight for those long-distance shots. Then there’s Modified, a good all-around choice. Improved Cylinder opens the pattern up a bit more for closer targets, and Skeet choke is the widest of the bunch, perfect for, you guessed it, skeet shooting! Each choke has its own purpose.

Now, how do you figure out what choke your Ithaca has? Look closely near the muzzle of the barrel. Ithaca usually stamped choke markings right there. You might see abbreviations like “F” for Full, “M” for Modified, “IC” for Improved Cylinder, or “SK” for Skeet. Sometimes, they used a system of asterisks. For example, ***** might mean Full, **** might be Improved Modified, *** could be Modified, ** Improved Cylinder, and * Skeet. Deciphering these markings is like cracking a secret code!

Finally, keep an eye out for adjustable chokes. These are aftermarket devices that screw onto the end of the barrel and allow you to change the choke constriction on the fly. They’re usually pretty obvious, with a rotating collar or some other mechanism for adjustment. While not original to most classic Ithacas, they can add versatility.

Decoding the Ithaca’s “Name Tag”: More Than Just a Pretty Face

Alright, picture this: you’ve got an Ithaca double in your hands, feeling all historical and whatnot. But how do you figure out exactly which piece of history you’re holding? The answer, my friend, often lies right there on the receiver – think of it as the shotgun’s name tag, though hopefully without any embarrassing childhood photos attached.

The model name, proudly stamped on the receiver, is your first big clue. We’re talking iconic names like the NID (New Ithaca Double), the Flues (yes, like the chimney!), the hardy Crass, or the slightly more elusive Lewis. Each model has its own quirks and characteristics, and knowing which one you’ve got is the first step to truly understanding your Ithaca.

Spotting the Lineup: A Quick Guide to Ithaca’s Star Receivers

So, how do you tell these models apart? Well, the NID, being the “New” kid on the block, often has a more modern feel (relatively speaking, of course – we’re still talking vintage shotguns here!). Keep an eye out for its generally streamlined appearance and robust build. The Flues, on the other hand, is a bit older and often shows it with a more classic, almost Victorian-era vibe.

The Crass model is known for its ruggedness and no-nonsense design, a real workhorse of a shotgun. Think of it as the pickup truck of the Ithaca line – reliable and ready to get the job done. Finally, the Lewis is a bit of a rarity, a side-lever action shotgun that stands out from the break-action crowd. Finding one of these is like stumbling upon a hidden gem.

Beyond the Model: Unveiling Hidden Meanings

But the receiver’s story doesn’t end with the model name. Keep your eyes peeled for other markings that might be etched into the metal. The Ithaca Gun Co. address is a classic, proudly proclaiming the shotgun’s origin. You might also find patent dates, offering a glimpse into the technological innovations that went into creating this firearm. And if you’re really lucky, you might even stumble upon special edition markings, hinting at a unique history or limited production run. These markings will definitely add to the resale value, and would be cool to find.

Stock Styles and Forend Features: Ergonomics and Aesthetics

Okay, picture this: you’re holding a beautiful Ithaca double-barrel, but something just doesn’t feel right. It could very well be the stock! These old shotguns came with a couple of main stock styles: the classic straight stock and the ever-popular pistol grip. A straight stock offers a traditional look and feel, allowing for a smooth, consistent mount, which many find ideal for fast-moving targets and a more “point-and-shoot” style. A pistol grip provides a more secure hold, allowing for greater control, especially when shooting heavier loads or at longer distances.

Now, how does this impact comfort and handling? The stock style drastically affects how the shotgun sits against your shoulder and how naturally you can swing it. A straight stock, for instance, often works well for folks with longer necks, while a pistol grip can be a better fit for those who prefer a more controlled and deliberate shooting style. Ultimately, it boils down to personal preference and what feels best in your hands. It’s like finding the perfect pair of jeans, you might have to try a few to find the ones that really fit you!

Next up, let’s talk forends. A favorite among shotgun enthusiasts is the beavertail forend. Imagine a wider, more rounded forend that fills your hand nicely. The advantage here is enhanced control, especially during rapid follow-up shots. The extra width gives you a better grip, absorbing recoil and making the shotgun more comfortable to shoot for extended periods. Plus, they just look fantastic, adding to the overall classic appeal.

Finally, you’ll see variations in forend shapes and materials. Some are slim and streamlined, while others are more robust. As for materials, you’ll primarily encounter walnut, but you might also find variations in the grade and finish, impacting both aesthetics and grip. Think of it as the shotgun’s way of expressing its personality. Some are refined, others are rugged, but each one has its own unique charm!

Engraving and Embellishments: A Visual Guide to Grades

Okay, let’s talk about the bling! When it comes to Ithaca double guns, the level of engraving and embellishment isn’t just for show – it’s a visual roadmap to understanding the gun’s grade and, ultimately, its value. Think of it like this: a basic model is like a reliable pickup truck, while a higher grade is like a luxury sports car. Both get you there, but one definitely turns more heads!

Basically, the higher the grade, the fancier the artwork etched onto the receiver, side plates, and other parts of the shotgun. So, what kind of artwork we talking about? It ranges from simple, almost minimalist designs (think tasteful line work and maybe a bit of scroll) to elaborate scenes teeming with wildlife, floral motifs, and even gold inlays.

Decoding the Canvas: Spotting the Engraving Patterns

Different grades of Ithaca double-barrel shotguns boasted distinct engraving patterns. Let’s go through a quick art history tour for shotguns, shall we?

• Grade 1: Usually had minimal engraving – perhaps some simple scrollwork. Think of it as the “plain but practical” look.
• Grade 2 & 3: Step it up a notch with more elaborate scrollwork, sometimes including simple game scenes, like a flushing pheasant or a pair of ducks in flight. The engraving might be machine-cut, offering an attractive but more cost-effective embellishment.
• Grade 4: The artwork starts getting really fancy, with finely detailed game scenes and often hand-cut engraving. You may see higher relief engraving, which gives the design a greater sense of depth and dimension.
• Higher Grades (5, 6, 7, and Specials): These grades are where the artistry truly shines. Expect intricate, hand-cut engraving with elaborate game scenes, gold inlays, and meticulous attention to detail. These guns were often custom-ordered and represented the pinnacle of Ithaca’s craftsmanship. These are the ones that make collectors drool.

Hot Tip: Look closely at the details. Hand-cut engraving will typically have a finer, more intricate look than machine-cut engraving. Also, the presence of gold inlays or higher relief engraving are good indicators of a higher grade.

Rarity and Riches: What the Engraving Says About Value

Alright, let’s talk about money! The engraving on an Ithaca double-barrel shotgun has a significant impact on its rarity and value. Generally, the more elaborate and intricate the engraving, the rarer and more valuable the gun.

A higher grade gun is simply rarer because fewer were made. The higher grades will command a premium on the collector market. Original, well-preserved engraving can significantly increase the value of an Ithaca double. After all, we are talking about artwork!

Important Factors

• Originality: Was the gun engraved at the factory, or was it altered later? Factory engravings are always worth more.
• Condition: Is the engraving sharp and well-defined, or is it worn and faded? A shotgun in excellent condition is usually worth more.
• Rarity of the Pattern: Some engraving patterns are rarer than others, making those guns more desirable to collectors.

Understanding the engraving and embellishments is a critical part of identifying and appreciating Ithaca double-barrel shotguns. It’s like unlocking a secret code to the gun’s history and value. Happy hunting!

Forend Release Mechanisms: A Deep Dive

Let’s talk about how to take apart your Ithaca, shall we? More specifically, how the forend magically attaches to the barrels. Two main contenders stepped into the ring back in the day: the Deeley & Edge and the Anson & Deeley mechanisms. Both were ingenious solutions to the same problem: keeping the forend securely in place while allowing for quick removal when you need to clean or store your gun. It’s like the handshake between the forend and the barrels – sometimes firm, sometimes… well, let’s explore!

Deeley & Edge: The Classic Approach

The Deeley & Edge release is often found on older Ithaca models. Imagine a simple, robust design – a spring-loaded latch, usually found at the tip of the forend. To remove the forend, you press this latch, which releases the tension, allowing you to slide the forend forward and off the barrels. It’s like a firm, reliable handshake.

Advantages: Simplicity is key here. The Deeley & Edge system is relatively straightforward to manufacture and maintain. There are fewer parts to break or wear out, making it a dependable option.

Disadvantages: The downside is that it can sometimes be a bit stiff or require more force to release, especially if it hasn’t been cleaned or lubricated in a while. Plus, repeated use over many years can lead to wear on the latch, affecting its reliability.

Anson & Deeley: A More Streamlined Design

The Anson & Deeley release is another common mechanism, and it is just so similar to Deeley & Edge release mechanism so it’s really hard to tell the difference. This design typically features a button or lever, often located on the underside of the forend, closer to the receiver. Pressing or sliding this button disengages the locking mechanism, allowing the forend to be removed.

Advantages: The Anson & Deeley design often offers a smoother, easier release compared to the Deeley & Edge. It can be more ergonomic, especially for shooters with smaller hands or those who prefer a lighter touch.

Disadvantages: This system can be slightly more complex internally, with more moving parts. While generally reliable, this increased complexity could (theoretically) make it more prone to issues over the long haul.

Which is Better? It’s All About Preference

So, which release mechanism reigns supreme? Honestly, it’s largely a matter of personal preference and the specific gun you’re dealing with. Some shooters swear by the simplicity of the Deeley & Edge, while others prefer the smoother action of the Anson & Deeley. The best way to decide is to handle different Ithaca models with each type of release and see which one feels most comfortable and intuitive for you. And, of course, always make sure both mechanisms are clean, lubricated, and in good working order for reliable performance in the field.

Trigger Time: Single vs. Double on Your Ithaca

Alright, let’s talk triggers! Specifically, whether your Ithaca rocks one trigger or two. It’s a surprisingly big deal and can tell you a lot about the gun and how it was intended to be used. Think of it like this: single triggers are the sports cars of the shotgun world, while double triggers are the classic, refined touring sedans.

Single Trigger: Bang, Bang, You’re Done!

A single trigger, as the name suggests, handles both barrels. Usually, a selector switch (often part of the safety) determines which barrel fires first.

• Advantages: Speed is the name of the game! You can get off two quick shots without having to shift your finger. It’s awesome for fast-moving birds or clays.
• Disadvantages: Can sometimes be less reliable than a double trigger, with the potential for mechanical hiccups. Plus, you’re relying on the selector to work properly.

Double Trigger: The Classic Choice

Now, for the double trigger setup – one trigger for each barrel. This is old-school cool and a hallmark of many classic Ithaca models.

• Advantages: Ultimate control and instant selectivity. You decide which barrel fires when. Got a close shot followed by a longer one? No problem! Also, many argue that double triggers are simpler mechanically and therefore more reliable.
• Disadvantages: Requires a bit more practice and coordination to use effectively. It’s not quite as fast as a single trigger for follow-up shots.

Speed Demons vs. Selectivity Savvy

So, which is better? Honestly, it’s down to personal preference and what you plan to do with your Ithaca.

• Do you like the simplicity of a double trigger?
• Or are you looking for the quick follow-up of a single trigger?

Each trigger configuration is a testament to different philosophies in shotgun design. Now, grab your Ithaca and see what feels best in your hands!

Butt Plates and Recoil Pads: Authenticity and Comfort

Alright, let’s talk about what’s literally at the end of the line – butt plates and recoil pads! These might seem like small details, but trust me, they can tell you a lot about your Ithaca double. Think of them as the shotgun’s shoes; original ones? Classic style. Aftermarket additions? Maybe a bit more modern comfort.

Why Original Butt Plates Matter

Now, you might be thinking, “A butt plate? Who cares?” Well, collectors care. Why? Because an original butt plate is like a birth certificate for your shotgun. It helps verify that the gun is as it left the factory, which directly impacts its value and authenticity. A swapped-out or damaged butt plate can knock down the price, so it’s worth paying attention to! It indicates whether the current condition of the butt plate matches the time in which the shotgun was manufactured.

The Spectrum of Styles: Butt Plates and Recoil Pads on Ithacas

Ithaca used a range of butt plates and recoil pads over the years. You’ll typically see hard rubber or composite butt plates on older models, often with the Ithaca logo molded right in. These are pretty durable but can get brittle with age.

For later models, especially those intended for heavier loads or trap shooting, you might find rubber recoil pads from brands like Pachmayr or even Ithaca’s own branded pads. These were all about taming that kick and making your shooting experience more pleasant.

Spotting the Fakes: Tips for Identification

So, how do you tell the real deal from a reproduction or an aftermarket pad? Here are a few things to look for:

• Logo and Markings: Original Ithaca butt plates usually have a crisp, clear logo. Reproduction plates might have a blurry or slightly different logo.
• Material and Texture: Original hard rubber butt plates tend to have a certain feel and texture. Reproductions might feel too smooth or too plastic-like.
• Fit and Finish: An original butt plate will fit the stock perfectly, with no gaps or overhang. Aftermarket plates might require some filing or modification to fit correctly, which can leave visible signs.
• Screw Patterns: The screw holes on original butt plates will align perfectly with the stock. If the screw holes look like they’ve been drilled out or filled in, that’s a red flag.
• Age and Wear: Look for signs of age-appropriate wear. A brand-new-looking butt plate on a 100-year-old shotgun is a pretty good indication that it’s not original.

If in doubt, compare it to known examples or consult with a knowledgeable collector or gunsmith. They can often spot subtle differences that might escape the untrained eye. The butt plate or recoil pad might seem like a minor detail, but it is an important detail when assessing the overall originality and value of your Ithaca double.

Case Hardening Colors: Evaluating the Finish – What’s That Rainbow on Your Receiver?

Ever looked at an Ithaca shotgun and noticed those beautiful, almost rainbow-like colors swirling on the receiver? That’s case hardening, folks, and it’s not just for show. It’s a functional finish that also adds a whole heap of character to these classic firearms. But how do you know if those colors are the real deal, or if someone’s been playing around with a can of something they shouldn’t have? Let’s dive in!

• Authentic case hardening colors on an Ithaca typically present as a vibrant mix of blues, purples, yellows, and browns. Think of it like an oil slick on water – that iridescent effect is what you’re aiming for. The intensity and specific hues can vary depending on the steel used, the heat treating process, and even the original manufacturer’s specific techniques. No two are exactly alike, which is part of the charm!

The Fading Rainbow: What Messes with Case Colors?

Time, as they say, takes its toll. A few factors can significantly affect the appearance of case hardening colors:

• Wear and Tear: This is the big one. Regular handling, cleaning (especially with harsh chemicals), and just plain old use can wear away the surface finish, causing the colors to fade. Areas that get a lot of contact, like the bottom of the receiver or around the action, are usually the first to go.
• Oxidation (Rust): Rust is the enemy of all things steel, and case hardening is no exception. Oxidation can dull the colors and create a mottled, uneven appearance.
• Refinishing: Oh, boy. Refinishing is where things get tricky. A well-done re-case hardening can restore the original appearance, but it’s often difficult to replicate the exact look of the original. And a poorly done job? Well, let’s just say it can look… less than ideal. Sometimes refinishing, while done with good intention, can drastically diminish value, as it is no longer original.

Spotting the Real Deal: Authenticity Tips

So, how do you separate the genuine article from a suspect finish? Here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Evenness: Original case colors tend to fade evenly. Look for a gradual lightening of the colors, rather than abrupt changes or blotchy areas.
• Sharpness of Detail: Check the edges of the receiver and around any engraved areas. Original case hardening typically preserves the sharpness of these details, while refinishing can sometimes soften them.
• The “Smell Test” (Not Literally!): Get familiar with what original case colors look like on other Ithaca shotguns. The more examples you see, the better you’ll become at recognizing the real thing. Compare images online and, if possible, examine guns in person.
• Expert Eyes Are Worth Their Weight in Gold: If you’re unsure, the best bet is to consult a qualified gunsmith or appraiser who specializes in antique firearms. They have the knowledge and experience to assess the authenticity and originality of the finish.

Remember: A shotgun with original case hardening colors is a treasure. Take the time to learn how to identify them, and you’ll be well on your way to appreciating these beautiful and historical firearms.

Beyond the Gun: Digging Deeper into Ithaca Identification

So, you’ve got an Ithaca double and you’re playing detective, huh? Fantastic! You’ve already learned a bunch, but sometimes, you need to call in the pros or hit the books (or, well, the digital books) to really nail down what you’ve got. Think of this section as your cheat sheet to becoming a true Ithaca sleuth.

Ithaca Gun Company Catalogs: Your Wayback Machine

Ever wish you could go back in time and see your Ithaca fresh off the factory floor? Well, Ithaca catalogs are the next best thing! These catalogs are like the original spec sheets, showing all the models, grades, options, and even prices from back in the day. Imagine flipping through a catalog from 1920 and seeing your shotgun listed with its original price – pretty cool, right?

• Finding These Treasures: Good news! Many of these catalogs have been digitized and are available through online archives and even some specialized libraries. A little Googling with the terms “Ithaca Gun Company catalog” and the year you think your shotgun was made can turn up some gold. Don’t be afraid to dive into some forum posts; other collectors are usually more than willing to share their collection and expertise.

Gunsmiths and Appraisers: When You Need the Experts

Alright, sometimes you just gotta admit when you’re out of your depth. That’s where qualified gunsmiths and appraisers come in. These folks are the Sherlock Holmeses of the gun world. They’ve seen it all, know the quirks, and can spot a fake a mile away.

• Why Bother? Accurate identification is crucial for valuation, restoration, and insurance purposes. A seemingly small detail can dramatically affect the value of your Ithaca. A qualified appraiser can provide you with that information.
• Finding the Right Pro: Look for gunsmiths and appraisers who specialize in antique firearms, and specifically those with experience in Ithaca shotguns. Ask for references, check their credentials, and don’t be afraid to ask about their experience with Ithaca models. A good specialist will be happy to answer your questions and explain their process.

Online Forums and Resources: The Ithaca Community

The internet is a fantastic resource, and the Ithaca community is alive and well online. Online forums and groups dedicated to Ithaca shotguns are treasure troves of information, shared knowledge, and amazing photos.

• Where to Look: Start with specialized gun collecting forums. Look for sections or groups specifically dedicated to Ithaca shotguns. These communities are filled with knowledgeable collectors who are happy to share their expertise.
• Pro-Tip: When posting questions, be specific and provide clear photos of your shotgun. The more information you provide, the better the responses you’ll receive. Remember, these are enthusiasts, so be respectful and engaging!

Aftermarket Modifications: Spotting the Changes

Okay, here’s where things get tricky. Over the years, many Ithaca shotguns have been modified, customized, or “improved” (sometimes for the worse!). These aftermarket modifications can significantly affect the value and originality of your shotgun.

• Common Culprits: Be on the lookout for things like:
  • Barrel alterations: Cut barrels, added choke tubes
  • Stock refinishing: A glossy, modern finish on an old stock is a big red flag.
  • Recoil pad installations: While a recoil pad can make shooting more comfortable, an incorrect or poorly fitted pad can detract from the gun’s value.
• Why It Matters: Originality is key for collectors. Any modifications, especially those that weren’t done professionally, can lower the value of your Ithaca. So, do your homework and be aware of any changes that may have been made over the years.

So, there you have it. With a little practice and these tips in mind, you’ll be identifying Ithaca doubles like a seasoned pro in no time. Happy hunting, and remember to always handle firearms with care and respect!